Suburban HWS

[Kelvin12]

G'Day All,

Just purchased a Suburban HWS, SW6DEA. According to the screed that comes with the unit you can't mount it under a slide out. Anyone got any idea as to why. I can understand the problem with a timber floor being overhead or close but my slide floor it steel with steel framing. Any ideas what sort of temperature these run at as I also need to use a rubber seal between the unit and the bin doors.

Dirk

[dapope]

because of the exhaust heat basically its vented out and if the slide out is out it will heat, Even with the steel I would suggest you could have issues. One possibility is to have a chimney extension, that when the slideout is out, it vents the heat to the exterior. would come into play only when the extnsion is out(i can see it in my head, but not sure if you get what I mean)

[Kelvin12]

I did read about a rear exhaust but lost it and haven't been able to find it again. My bin doors are pantograph so need a rubber seal arrangement to stop dust and water getting into the undersides. Other option might have to be to mount it at floor level but still need the rubber seal. Alternative is to mount it elsewhere somehow.

Dirk

[T1 Terry]

the exhaust gases coming inside would be the other issue, the silent killer carbon monoxide problem. There are rules regarding openings to the inside and distances from the exhaust so windows become an issue as well. don't forget to mount it so you can get easy access to the anode so you can replace it every 12 mths.

T1 Terry

[Kelvin12]

Going to scratch the head a bit tonight, when I go through my waking / thinking period. Might even have to move it down the back a bit. Just to many things to fit in this bus, really think I need a 'B' double or even a road train.

Dirk

[dapope]

give up some bin space!!
in our old winnie it was let in to under the seating area

[T1 Terry]

we ended up opting for electric water heating, it was just easier. on the days there isn't enough solar we will need to run the engine an use a combination of engine coolant water heating while recharging the batteries and if there is any spare in the batteries use that to heat the water to reduce the engine run time. it would need to be a severe weather period for us to not have enough solar to do the job but a back up plan is always needed.
Brian has completely removed all the LPG from his Hino now, all the water heating via solar electric.

T1 Terry

[Kelvin12]

Sort of got thing stuck away everywhere. You would think with 40feet there would be more than enough.

Shit, Terry I can understand bloody why he pissed off all the LPG shit. All these new gas regs are plain bloody stupid. Obviously drawn up by some clown in an office who has never been near a m/h. Yet you still you are allowed to have a 9kg bottle sitting a few inches away from a flame in a BBQ and you don't have to have it inspected/certified. Obviously most of this crap is only to protect the gas installers. Wish I had looked at all elect. earlier.

Dirk

[dapope]

sell the water heater and start again
Not sure if it will help or not, but this shows how ours is done...

IMAG0300.jpg

[T1 Terry]

Is yours the dual LPG and electric the same as Brian's? We just designed a simple circuit to switch the hot water on for a few minutes each time the batteries were full so it just took the top off, all powered from his 2.5kW inverter.
His bus conversion has been a real eye opener to what can be achieved at a very reasonable price using modern technology. His whole set up came in well under the cost of using low voltage stuff and AGM batteries including the slightly higher cost of the lithium batteries and big inverter/charger.
He was so happy with his 6 mth trial when he came back he pulled out good lead acid start batteries and replaced them with more lithium batteries so he never had battery problems again and had more back up storage if he ever needed it. That was when he decided to see if all electric was possible and again we were surprised just how much these batteries change the whole game.

T1 Terry