ceiling lining

[bagmaker]

Chatting to another member recently and the topic of ceiling linings came up as we are honing in on this for our rig. Our current thinking is a foam board with a hard shell, glued to the existing woodfibre bondwood boards that had 30 years of carpet on them.
http://www.mitchellgroup.com.au/product ... 2/pvc-foam - available in a lot of thickness but our choice is limited due to a lack of height, 3mm will do the job for us. Our roof retains the curved shape as well, other builders can have a flat installation which would be nice.

But I have no experience with the product or installation. Fire risk? Unsure. Best adhesive? unsure but Soudel TRex hasn't slipped off anything yet...

The other fellow is intending to go the Dibond ally sandwich style product, expensive but quality.

So what does the brains trust know?

[Busman]

Polyester lined ply, surprisingly hardy, less than $30 a sheet, lined the walls with it as well, cuts easy with a router

[bagmaker]

Will it move around much with humidity Busman?
Is it stiff enough to hold shape or does it follow the uneven contours of the mounting surface?
Did you use this on VP?

[Mrbolly]

Just thinking aloud here, but what about 3mm preprinted fibreglass sheet, still able to easily conform with a curve such as that in your ceiling, could be installed in a single long sheet with the only joint being in the centre. The only complicating factor being you would need to give it a small stretch over the length (3mm) would do it. You can buy the material in a 12mtr long roll. Options?

[Mrbolly]

Just thinking aloud here, but what about 3mm prepainted fibreglass sheet, still able to easily conform with a curve such as that in your ceiling, could be installed in a single long sheet with the only joint being in the centre. The only complicating factor being you would need to give it a small stretch over the length (3mm) would do it. You can buy the material in a 12mtr long roll. Options?

[Busman]

As above used on walls as well, and I think you need to make your framework straight, bit much asking any material to hang by itself because the framing is not right.
I am done with he really long sheets and when you have to take it off it becomes a real pain.
There is a reason the really expensive motor home builders use the stuff, it works !

[Mrbolly]

As above used on walls as well, and I think you need to make your framework straight, bit much asking any material to hang by itself because the framing is not right.
I am done with he really long sheets and when you have to take it off it becomes a real pain.
There is a reason the really expensive motor home builders use the stuff, it works !

What did you do bout the joints?

[bagmaker]

good thinking on the long stuff but I would have to take out the top windscreen or something for access, can only (just) get 2.4 x 1220 sheets up the stairs.

[Mrbolly]

good thinking on the long stuff but I would have to take out the top windscreen or something for access, can only (just) get 2.4 x 1220 sheets up the stairs.

If you went that way, the fibreglass comes in a roll and could be carried up the stairs rolled and unroll once up there. But the Busman has a point, if you need to remove it for any reason, then you would need to cut the section you need access to and repair it later. Although, it probably wouldn't matter what material you glue in place, removing will always be a pill.

[mikeg]

I used white Polyester Faced Ply when I did my fitout 17 years ago and it's still the 'ants pants', very easy to clean and does not attract fats and fumes from cooking and if it does get marks then a quick wipe and they're gone. Fitting the 1220x2440 sheets was straight forward. Where I wanted the ceiling to start was from the top most horizontal RHS so I carefully measured 1220mm from that point up and over towards the centre line and marked both points. I then did the same moving towards the back about every 200mm until I had covered the approx length of a 2440 sheet, both along the bottom and along the centre line. I checked with a string line to make sure the holes were in line and then went along and drilled and screwed self tappers along each mark leaving each screw sitting about 10mm proud of the surface.

From there it was a simple matter of getting hold of a mate and we then offered up each sheet, putting the lower edge of each sheet behind the self tappers and pushing up in the centre of the sheet until the sheet conformed to the curve of the roof and 'popped' behind the upper self tappers. The sheets were self supporting and remained in place at this stage without any mechanical fixing at all. From this point I went along and drilled and riveted both fore and aft edges of each sheet with countersunk 3/16 rivets about every 200mm and removed the self tappers.

After doing both sides there was about a 450mm gap in the centre so matching ply was cut and riveted there as well, easy going as it was flat. Next was the joins. I covered the fore aft joins with a lightly stained tassie oak cover strip and for the transverse ones I used a white PVC cover strip, this by the way, is an old boat building trick and by using the stained timber for and aft it gives the impression of length and the white transverse ones seem to give height.

I hope all this makes sense.