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You sure you didn't cut & put it in the return line Bernie?

better check again Bernie, these things have been know to fool the best.


I'd go the manual prime.... maybe it's timing and shutting down before it's priming itself???

No Jon it goes thru its normal start up but stops when it cant get fuel .
Did any one notice there is a ELECTRIC pump on the fuel line which then goes to my lift pump .
So impossible to not be correct line .
Bernie .
Must add there is a fuel filter/water trap just after the electric pump .
so wrong line is a no no .

OK, change the "T" to after the electric lift pump, that'll fix it.
I thought the electric pump you referred to was the heater tick, tick pump.

Yep was my next move tomorrow Bruce have to go to town to get some fuel line first .
But still don't understand why its not priming I even turned the pump on which is auto when I turn the key on .
It cant ???? suck the fuel away from the tee could it ? as it is now . also at the tee off is the heater fuel filter which is one way only .
Thanks .
Bernie .

Bernie will the bus run OK? Not sure if it was the bus or the heater that only runs for a bit.
Personally I would never install it in the engine pickup line at all. Can you install the heater fuel line in the bung on the bottom of the tank?
There is usually a small drain plug in there.
Get one of those 'nipples' with a 2" length of filter gauze on it like on a small engine.
Something like this one.
http://www.wemoto.com.au/parts/picture/hl-745118/

Yep the bus runs ok Bruce most people and all the new motor home draw from the top of the tanks .
I have spoken to a few mates that have done what I have and they are also at wits end to why .
Bernie .
No tap on my tank just a humungest bung .

Rolled around underneath andover the wheels to grease the steering and kingpins as well as the driveshaft. The electric jacks make it an easier job. Was only 38 today.

BernieQ wrote:Yep the bus runs ok Bruce most people and all the new motor home draw from the top of the tanks .
I have spoken to a few mates that have done what I have and they are also at wits end to why .
Bernie .
No tap on my tank just a humungest bung .

The problem is common, the other problem that will arise is air in the engine fuel supply line under heavy load because the engine will get the fuel from where ever it can, without a one way valve that seals 100% it will pull the fuel out of the diesel heater till it can get air in via the burner nozzle. Pull the fuel pick up plate out of the top of the tank, fit a separate pick up pipe for the diesel heater and all the problems will be avoided. To prime the heater pump, drop the hose off after the pump and supply battery power to the rattle pump. When you get clean no bubble fuel flow, connect the heater pipe but leave the nut loose. Fire the pump up again direct from the battery and while the pump is still running, work your way through each connection till you get clear fuel flow with no air.
Before you use the heater after summer, disconnect the pipe as close to the burner as you can and pump a few litres of fuel through to get all the fuel and waxes out of the lines so they don't end up in the heater nozzle and stuff it up.

T1 Terry

my installation notes specifically said NOT to apply direct voltage to the "rattle" pump - are you sure this is OK Terry?

They control the speed of the rattle pump to control the fuel feed, if you have the fuel feed disconnected it will not flood the combustion chamber and I think this is what they are concerned about. When doing that final system bleed through the loosened pipe fitting, work your way through nipping up each fitting till you get to the one closest to the burner. When clear fuel is coming out of that fitting disconnect the direct wiring and go through the heater start up process, watch again for clear bubble free fuel at the last connection, then nip that one closed as well, the heater should fire up.

T1 Terry