Using a Household Fridge

[homeless]

Tanks I use some rubber latches from BUNNINGS.

They were only a few dollars for two and they stick with pads, and once they are stuck you cant get them off so be careful when you affix them.

They have silver oval buttons and a strap that fits over posts on the Buttons. They cant come off and I have one on the freezer and one on the fridge. I also added some to the doors that the catches wern't up to scratch as mine is a mans bus so as long as it works it is OK.

No little or big women to tell me off

I could find out what is in the cabinet if you like as a friend works at Westinghouse in Orange and he will know. They make the bigger fridges there but the smaller ones would be the same construction. They stopped production of anything under 320ltrs just before I was to get a sample for on the road testing BUGGER

Regards
Brian

[Keith Morris]

Thanks Brian,
Likewise - my Sprinter is a mans' shed on wheels as I am a single bloke and not overly concerned with the neatness of the fixtures as long as it works and stops the food and all from falling out onto the floor, which gets "Russell" agro.
That has solved the flying-open door bit. Now to work out how to anchor the whole thing to the floor and wall. I am thinking that I should obtain 4 right angle light gauge metal brackets, and just pop rivet them to the top and bottom of the fridge on each side of the fridge body, and bolt the thing onto the wall.

Perhaps I can make a timber frame on the floor to sit the unit in and just anchor it at the top. I have not purchased the fridge as yet as I have just started to convert the van so I have plenty of time to consider all options. Having finished the insulation of the van I am now working on getting the bed in place and secure. I did plan to locate the fridge over the wheel arch when I was looking at a chest type fridge about 100 cu ft.

After reading on the Forum about the Fisher Paykel E-248-T model upright 2 door fridge with the larger capacity (250 cu/ft, plus the larger freezer compartment, I am going that way. The height of the unit means that I can't place it on the wheel arch so it is now re-design the layout and use option 27. I have moved the bed from the rear of the van to the front just behind the drivers seat, which is a better location as I can access the sliding door without having to go the full length of the van to get in/out, and with the sliding door open I get a better view of the surroundings when I am parked. "Russell" likes the new arrangement and is happy with the modifications and being my "travel mate" he has to be considered.

I have cardboard mock-ups that I move around from place to place to see how things fit. I have moved the kitchen sink and the shower/toilet 3 times so far, and this is now going to be across the back of the van with the 2 rear doors giving access for cleaning the ablutions and storage of the various drain/fill hoses. The kids think that I should just go and buy a vehicle that has already been converted to save all of the trouble. My thoughts are that it gives me something to do --more like a hobby-- than a necessity, as I already have the Sprinter to use when I want to Up-Up-and-Away and go touring. I have no experience at what I am doing, but its better than watching tv or doing cross words.
Keith

[T1 Terry]

There are tubes in the out walls, when the fridge is doing a heavy load temp pull down, rubbibg your hands on the walls will quickly tell you where the tubes are. Not burn yourself hot like the old rear mount coils, but warm enough to identify their location.
The stretch strap retainers Brian mentioned are certainly good, they are in the child proofing section at Bunnings, easy to fit and look very neat and clean.
to mount the fridge, some sort of cup affair for the feet to sit in and 30mm x 3mm aluminium glued with Sikaflex across the top and a second longer piece facing back to back and anchoring brackets on the wall each side. Bolts, through the 2 pieces of aluminium angle and into the wall brackets so the anchoring piece of aluminium is easy to remove. Rivet nuts would be the easiest to use, that way you don't need access to hold the nut behind. The idea is to hold the fridge down on the foot holding cups and stop it from tilting forward or side ways at the top.
The fridge needs a min of 50mm up each side and enough room above it to let the hot air escape, some sort of roof vent above the fridge would work even better.

[TigerMK1]

I have the same F&P fridge. Before that we had the gas/elec. The lower vent was still in situ. From that I have access to the lower rear of the fridge. It was easy to get 2 cup hooks that go thru the floor and hook over the rear frame. Stops all movement. Regarding keeping the door close. There are 2 small plastic covers in the top of the fridge they are there to allow opening from either side. There is also a similar hole in the top of the freezer door and the fridge door. Using a 2mm length of stainless I punched down thru the freezer door insulation via the exiting holes, then a small way into the top of the fridge door.

In serting the rod thru both doors and then the top bent to fit into the second hole in the top of the fridge you have a secure locking mechinism that is neat and can't be seen.

[Wilbor]

While it's not on a FP fridge I used this for a 90lt upright freezer, made out or some sort or plastic (might have started life as a plastic guide post or similar) it uses the existing hinge hole and fastening points.

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P2121893 (800x600).jpg

This type on the 2 door Waeco fridge freezer

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[Keith Morris]

"tanks" here,
You guys are GREAT --many thanks for your suggestions and guidance.
If only I had realised that there was so much willing help available about 60 years ago life may have been more interesting, I'm glad I brought a motorhome, and even more pleased that I found the Forum.
Keith.
p.s. Stick around fellars, I have a lot more to do over the next 12 month or so and I no doubt will pick your brains for solutions to my problems. The Roll Out Awning will be done by the tradesmen who know how to do these things, so don't get too excited here ---I know my limits.
Already I feel "full bottle" on Batteries and Solar Panels thanks to T1 and his words of wisdom---LiFe Batteries sounds the way to go when I get to that stage.
Keith