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An almighty belt with a heavy hammer _ on the side of the 'eye' not the threaded part. That's how tapers come apart. You won't damage it.

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Explain eye a bit more Steve .
Bernie .

I'm a bit unclear from the picture and I am making an assumption that the cotter pin has a taper. But, usually a cotter pin has a taper and whatever the pin goes into (the eye) is tapered to match. Hope I am helping. If not, ignore me!

That one is stuck near the head, not on the taper. Some lazy sod drove that cotter pin in till it would move no more rather than having the taper filed to lock the king pin in by tightening the nut. The head of that cotter pin was dome shaped when new, that gives you and idea of the amount a bashing it took to jam it in the hole.... centre drill half the length and continue to increase the drill diameter till the pin knocks out from the nut end. Leave the nut on till the pin moves enough for the nut to come flush with cross member, then the pin will knock out easily.
Best buy a king pin kit as the bearing is the likely cause of any end float..... you can not shim out any slop in the bushes No short cut, new bushes, ream to suit the new pin, new bearing and shim to fit. If you can get the hollow kin pins with hole drilled to meat the bushing centre you can convert them to oil filled, last near for ever then.

T1 Terry

The pins have a welsh plug on the bottom Terry ( I haven't removed it yet ) and a cap with bolt on the top if that helps .
Thanks for your input Steve .
Terry there is no sideways movement on the pin just up and down
Bernie .

BernieQ wrote:The pins have a welsh plug on the bottom Terry ( I haven't removed it yet ) and a cap with bolt on the top if that helps .
Thanks for your input Steve .
Terry there is no sideways movement on the pin just up and down
Bernie .

If it's just up and down, the bearing has collapsed, so a new brg and shims should fix it. The bolt in the top may be a grease nipple plug, it may have a hollow kingpin already, but you will know when you get it all out anyway. that cap in the bottom won't reseal once you knock it out so you will need the new one that comes as part of the kingpin kit.

Drill the centre out from the non threaded end.

Get a nice long drift and drill the end a whisker to place over the threaded end to position it and give it an almighty whack.

Thanks Jon , still working on what to do have other things getting in the way at the moment .
Terry the grease nipples are on the side of the axle one up one down not on top.
Bernie .

I have drill thru the pin about 2 1/4" but the little bugger still remains defiant . About 8 or 9mm hole .
Any thoughts from here ?
Bernie .

whack it.

It could be that it's turned and jammed. Are you sure it's the original?

Be careful; now that it's hollow, it doesn't fold over and really jam.

Bernie, you might have to gradually drill it out, but be careful, the slot is tapered and try not to cut into the king pin.

Also, maybe, the pin needs to be jacked up to relieve the load??