https://www.ozervnews.com

good on you Carol, keep the old bugger working.

I note it was Carol doing the tiling.

George

Is my riding crop George so that makes me the supervisor . Twas my expertise that cut the tiles around the power switches .
Back to the battery problem I turned the fridge on at 4pm yesterday with a reading of 13.8 . Now at 7.50 the reading is 12.4 .
Will leave it on all day , solar is not connected .
Bernie .

Hmm, the paper look-alike benchtop is a novel idea.

That's for reading when bored of tiling Chuck .
Just was in the bus fridge had cut in and volts were 12.2 I waited till fridge turned off the volts returned to 12.4 after a few minutes .
Bernie .

BernieQ wrote: ↑Fri Jun 09, 2017 9:52 am That's for reading when bored of tiling Chuck .
Just was in the bus fridge had cut in and volts were 12.2 I waited till fridge turned off the volts returned to 12.4 after a few minutes .
Bernie .

Stop the load test when the battery voltage drops below 12v or even 11.8v when the fridge is running, that will give you an idea how much capacity remains in the battery and this is the bench mark to get the other battery to deliver. The fact the difference between loaded and rested voltage is close and it takes a while to recover to the rested voltage shows that battery is still functioning. The rested voltage after a long charge cycle of 12.6v says the battery is down to around 70% capacity, so really only 20% useable before the 12v under load/50%SOC is reached.
The other battery has virtually no capacity at the moment so don't link the 2 together unless you can get that battery up to around the same condition.

T1 Terry

Terry I disconnected around 2pm the battery at 12.00v I don't think the inverter could turn the fridge on it was only showing 218vac . I held both door on the fridge open for 5 min and it didn't start .
The battery now at rest is 12.5 .
Mate up the road has lent me a AGM battery ( Ill tell him about it when he gets home next week ) so will also do test with this battery as well, I think its 100amp .
Bernie .
Read the blub on the inside of the fridge and it says 5amp draw ?

BernieQ wrote: ↑Fri Jun 09, 2017 4:39 pm Terry I disconnected around 2pm the battery at 12.00v I don't think the inverter could turn the fridge on it was only showing 218vac . I held both door on the fridge open for 5 min and it didn't start .
The battery now at rest is 12.5 .
Mate up the road has lent me a AGM battery ( Ill tell him about it when he gets home next week ) so will also do test with this battery as well, I think its 100amp .
Bernie .
Read the blub on the inside of the fridge and it says 5amp draw ?

Always hard to determine just what (watt?) that means, it could be locked rotor current, 5 amps x 240vac = 1200w and that would equal 100 amps @ 12vdc plus the inverter losses, a 7.5 amp draw at 12vdc is only 90w so the 5 amps @ 240vac isn't run current.
The battery voltage when assessing SOC for a lead acid battery is while under its rated load, so the 7.5 amp load would have been enough to gauge that, but if it isn't an inverter fridge the compressor start up load could be as much as that 100 amp figure for a locked rotor and the battery just couldn't deliver enough to the inverter to get the compressor spinning

Some info re the Hisense 220l fridge. Mine draws 3.5 amps @ 24V or thereabouts via 1000w inverter.
The specs state: Energy consumption as 1.073kw hrs per 24hrs

George

Bernie, have the batteries died or have you just given up? I have been watching with interest for future reference.

George