Our "New to Us" Winnie

[BruceS]

Dunno .... that's what utuber told me IF you replacing comp & drier ....
Thanks for the pic.
Mine on the Suzi is simple Orings everywhere, even on the condenser.

20251204_174500.jpg

It also has a 3 wire sensor that I guess unscrews?

[Noggins]

Depending on the age of the original install, the recharge fittings will not be the same. Freon or R22 -23-etc
Here's hoping you have the correct ones, the flushing is done at the discharge side of the compressor, and opened at the receiving (or low side.)
That way the compressor oils are not all that involved, and if the Refrigerant oil level was correct, it will stay that way, unmolested.
You have checked the compressor oil level ?
If possible remove the compressor and replace the oil in it ( maybe a bit late now) but adding a small amount to the vac line when refilling the gas never hurt.
Although I have had to travel several hundred Km's to remove an over-oiled system.

Once again, different oils for different gases, so check before closing the system to regas.
With the R series gases, the sight glass in the receiver / drier is useless, and the gas is put in by weight.
Using Freon or similar, the sight glass says it's full when running clear.

[T1 Terry]

Depending on the age of the original install, the recharge fittings will not be the same. Freon or R22 -23-etc
Here's hoping you have the correct ones, the flushing is done at the discharge side of the compressor, and opened at the receiving (or low side.)
That way the compressor oils are not all that involved, and if the Refrigerant oil level was correct, it will stay that way, unmolested.
You have checked the compressor oil level ?
If possible remove the compressor and replace the oil in it ( maybe a bit late now) but adding a small amount to the vac line when refilling the gas never hurt.
Although I have had to travel several hundred Km's to remove an over-oiled system.

Once again, different oils for different gases, so check before closing the system to regas.
With the R series gases, the sight glass in the receiver / drier is useless, and the gas is put in by weight.
Using Freon or similar, the sight glass says it's full when running clear.

The system is running R134a at the moment .... or was, before it was evacuated.
The compressor didn't get removed, but a bit of the green fluro dye came out of the outlet side hose from the Receiver drier, maybe a teaspoon full, but it always looks like a lot when it spreads across the concrete, but it was gone by the time I returned with the new receiver drier, so it either soaked into the concrete or evaporated, but left a dark brown sort of residue where it worked its way under hoses etc.

I have contacted a seller on Evilbay who is offering cans of the Hichill Minus 30 425g cans and a filler hose system, based in Australia, to see if I need to change the lubricant ... the answers on the interweb are worse than when I was looking for info regarding LiFeP04 batteries all those yrs ago, really hard to tell who is putting up B/S in an attempt to sure up R134a sales and keep the servicing in that closed community thing, and who is genuine .....

T1 Terry

[T1 Terry]

The front body section is partly attached now, still have to do the sides where it joins the side panels ..... spent hrs cleaning up all the bolts, wire brushing the threads to make them easy to install .... tightened the first one and it sheared off at the bolt head

Should have save all that time and just fitted new bolts in the first place.
Had to wait all day for Margaret to return from Murray Bridge with the 6mm nyloc nuts, but it's on there now .... might not be a Sunday leave it seems, still need to fit the lights, the spade terminals on the H4 bulb were rusted into the plug and the terminals parted from the bulb rather than the plug ..... another set back .....
Bullbar will be the last bit to go on I think.

Tried to polish the dull headlight lenses, it appears someone tried to sand them down with a brick or similar grade abrasive ...... they are at least a bit better, but if I can't find replacements, I'll have to sand them down starting with 1,000 grit wet and dry and work my way up

Tanks didn't finish bolting themselves in either, so I guess I'm going to have to do that job as well

T1 Terry

[Dot]

Terry people say that they do their dull headlight covers with toothpaste. Did you clean up the nuts as well as the bolts??

[Eddy]

Meguiar's Plast X Clear Plastic Cleaner Polish

Have you tried Meguiar's Plast X Clear Plastic Cleaner Polish - worked well on a old car headlights we purchased (the lens was original no one had tried to sandpaper though)

[supersparky]

Meguiar's Plast X Clear Plastic Cleaner Polish

Have you tried Meguiar's Plast X Clear Plastic Cleaner Polish - worked well on a old car headlights we purchased (the lens was original no one had tried to sandpaper though)

That stuff works pretty good. I've used it on the gkids Hyundai headlights.

[T1 Terry]

Terry people say that they do their dull headlight covers with toothpaste. Did you clean up the nuts as well as the bolts??

Part of the shower routine Dottie ... I might be silly enough to have more, but I've only got the one .....

Tried the toothpaste and number 2 cut and polish, scratches are very deep, someone in the past must have sanded them, using a brick by the depth of the scratches, you can feel them using the fingernails

T1 Terry

[BruceS]

Progress report please Terry?
Test drive report please?

[T1 Terry]

Progress report please Terry?
Test drive report please?

I wish, it is just too hot to stay at it for very long. The head lights and indicators are in, the left hand side of the front clip is attached .... and that's about it ..... about to have crack at attaching the right hand side ..... and attempt to get the Bull Bar in place .... maybe .....

The last bits seem to take for ever .....

T1 Terry