Inverter problem now...

[Greynomad]

Hmmm.
Having the plumbing problem sorted by Brian at the Mukinupin gathering (Thanks again Brian!) I now find the inverter has developed a problem.
Well, I suspect it's not the actual inverter. That fires up & I can hear the fan going.
It worked 5 days ago. Then 3 days ago - nothing.
When I flick the 2 switches inside, the Volt meter on the 240 side should register the 250 it puts out... but the needle remains firmly on zero.
Had the cranking batteries replaced the day before we left Melb when they died suddenly. Worked the previous week, and connected to landbase power all the while. Have no idea if previous owner ever replaced the originals, but they were AC Delco brand. After three years of punishment by us, I reckon we were lucky to get that far! Several times the low-voltage cut-out activated at 10.5v. We're more watchful of power usage now...
However, the cranking batts are not in the house circuit; isolator switch ensures that. Doesn't it?
I've checked the RCD. It's ON.
Have not closely checked the fuse behind the protective sleeve in underfloor box. If that's OK, looks like a job for a Licenced Electrician.
Took it to an Auto Electrician here in Bris. He regularly has m/hs in his drive, so understands most probs. He reckons because it's 240v, despite being supplied by 12v batteries, it MUST be done by a LE, which he is not.
Any suggestions?

PS. BBoard system time appears to be still working to Daylight Saving time. Posted at 12.59am EST.

[BruceS]

Hi Ray.
I've got the forum set at SA time.
If you look right down the bottom?
"""All times are UTC + 9:30 hours"""
In your profile you can adjust it for where ever you live.
It's difficult to control because the forum BASE time is taken from the server itself & if the ones running the server aren't on the ball it throws everything out.
I'll look at it again as I think some time ago I figured out how to 'correct' the server time.

As for the inverter I'd make sure that 12V is going into the inverter. Do you have a multimeter?
I'd guess a fuse has popped or a loose connection.
Having said that I had a small one fail when it had no load at all on it. I now always turn it off till I wish to use some 240V item. Sounds like that chap just didn't want to help you........

[T1 Terry]

When you turn the inverter switches on, what lights come up on the inverter? Generally, if the inverter has thrown in the towel, the red overload light comes on, even though there is no over load. I haven't figured out what causes that one yet, I have a few inverters here that have died that way.
Try leaving it turned on for a few hrs and the batteries on charge, I have one inverter that won't come back to life if it's had a low voltage shutdown till the supply voltage is above 13.5v, then it switches back on, I can plug the load in and every thing is fine, till the next low voltage shut down

[Greynomad]

I checked a few things today...
- The pretty lights say all is well within the inverter.
- The multimeter says the fuse (removed to test) is OK.
- I noticed a little blackening on the bottom (input side) of the plastic shield over the fuse linkage, so tested the bridge from input to output, without the fuse in place. Bloody near blew the multimeter! (wrong power range )
So (with the correct range selected) the input and output cables would seem to be well-connected to the fuse block. No burnt cables (eyeballed as well)... blackening might be from a previous owner's experience. It's hidden by other bits & bobs screwed to the box wall, so is only detectable by removing the cover for inspection.

T1,
The house batts were replaced about 12 months ago after two low-voltage disconnects in 3 months. So they're OK.
Mystery surrounds the drain which flattened the crank batts the day we were to leave. I checked all connections: under-bin lights (the usual suspects when loads shift ); wardrobe door (auto-on light will operate if door not locked shut, but that might be on the house circuit); engine bay (no loose wires or shorts obvious); all ciggie-plug appliances (off); inverter not left on accidentally; etc. No luck/problems anywhere...

Where to now?
Auto Electrician can't touch it: fault is on the 240v side. Licenced Electrician, here we come... $$$

[BruceS]

Ray you haven't told us the size of it but when mine stopped working (600w) I got a good deal on one from an autoPro shop that enticed me to throw mine in the bin and move on.
Most leccies would want $70 or more to take out a screw driver!!

[Greynomad]

Bruce,
It's a Mastervolt Dakar Combi 12/1500-65... 1500w biggie.
I think $1800 would be an underestimation of replacement cost, so a LE would be good value, even if the bill runs to three figures.

Girt is now sucking 240v from a powerpoint in the garage, since 1400hrs. Lights indicate charger connected, but Inverter not on. Hmmm.
Battery-side light says it's on 'float'.

[BruceS]

You should get one for $200 that size Ray? Pure too....... not modified.
Prices have dropped a lot over the years. You might find the later ones use lass on standby as well.
That must be quite old? By the look of their site they are/were a very good brand.

[Craig]

Ours has a high input voltage cut out that prevents the inverter from activating. When this happens I turn on a couple of the 12 volt lights which drops the voltage just enough to activate the inverter. Can you tell us what the voltage is?

Bruce,
I doubt you would get a combi unit for that price. Although Mastervolt are very overpriced, I'm sure you could do better with another brand for less.

[Greynomad]

My $1800 was based on the cost as an option from Winnebago on their current range (pre-Avida).
If it's around $200 replacement, and the elec says it's the inverter, not the wiring from there to the house harness (which is where I suspect the problem lies), we'd be happy to replace it with a 2500w unit!
The reasons I suspect the house harness are:
- the inverter is receiving 12v from the house batts - indicated by the fact that the inverter hums & the fan kicks in.
- the multimeter shows power at & beyond the fuse block.
- the inside switches for Inverter On, Mains Source, & Inverter Output when correctly selected, show zilch on the voltmeter.

[oldtrack123]

Have not closely checked the fuse behind the protective sleeve in underfloor box. If that's OK, looks like a job for a Licenced Electrician.
Took it to an Auto Electrician here in Bris. He regularly has m/hs in his drive, so understands most probs. He reckons because it's 240v, despite being supplied by 12v batteries, it MUST be done by a LE, which he is not.
Any suggestions?

PS. BBoard system time appears to be still working to Daylight Saving time. Posted at 12.59am EST.

HI
Your Auto electrician is right ,
If the 12V side is OK , it is a job for a licensed 240V electrician or perhap a SERVICE SHOP EXPERIENCED IN REPAIRING SUCH INVERTERS

Dakar Combi's are not simple inverters & care is needed in wiring them IN
Replacing THAT with a simple inverter ,could involve some extensive 240V rewiring

PeterQ