Remove surface rust from wheel nuts...

[Chuck]

Is there a reliable method to remove slight rusting of wheel nuts on the van... yes I know I can use the wire brush & then... followed by... etc etc.

Looking for a simple option of either dropping them in a tin/container/bucket of some sort of mixture that will miraculously remove the rust & renew the shine?

Now tell me I'm dreaming...

[BruceS]

Chuck My mechanic mate here in Kingston has done a lot of work on marine equipment.
A lot of fittings on engines he "electro-plates" using a BIG battery charger.
I'm not sure of the exact anode he uses but I can find out if you like.
You simply hang the item from the positive lead & the anode from the negative lead in a solution & let the process begin.
I was amazed at what a set on injector pipes looked like.
Kevin Geue who runs the tractor museum here does similar to dissolve rust off parts of ancient machinery.
I'd suggest you should first use the process to remove the rust & then electro-plate the nuts.
I'm sure Terry would know? No dust (sorry ... rust) on his nuts!

[pop's coaster54]

Hi Chuck.

You said it Chuck.
your dreaming.

Ron.

Just coasting along.

[T1 Terry]

Boil them up in either caustic or molasses, the molasses really works well but takes a little while longer.

[bob r]

one part molasses in six parts water , as terry said will take a while.
bob

[T1 Terry]

I've never tried this part, but apparently a heater and some form of electrolysis greatly assists the molasses method. The great advantage of the molasses is it creates some sort of skin effect that resists surface rust forming. The hot caustic and electrolysis bath will result is almost instant surface rust forming on the bare metal as it's hosed off.

[Chuck]

Hmm... 6/1 water & molasses sounds good & should smell alright as well.

Imagine the time frame will depend on the level of rust per - dare I say it - nut!

Also thinking that keeping it up to the boil may require topping up.

Will probably boil it in the Billy so hope there is no adverse effects.

[mikeg]

This is quite a bit longer than my usual reply to posts, it describes a method of derusting I have personally used for many years when restoring vintage cars.

My lazy way to clean off rust, scale, grease and even paint. Molasses works as someone suggested but takes quite a long time. I have been using the system below since the 1970’s and it works fine. I wouldn’t put alloys or machined surfaces in it however. I played with quantities of chemical but have found it not to be too critical and what I suggest will work and should get you started.

You will need 2 plastic lined 44 gal (200 litre ) drums or plastic ones or even a fibreglass bath tub will do you just can’t have metal in contact with the liquid. A good battery charger with an amp meter and alligator clips on the leads, a length of ¼ steel rod about 3 feet long and a piece of 4x1 timber long enough to lay across the top of the drum. Also some tie wire, long rubber gloves and eye protection. Most of you should be able to scrounge all this. You will have to buy one 20kg bag of caustic potash and one 20 litre drum concentrated phosphoric acid. (most chemical companies will have these)

Set up the first drum with Caustic: Carefully add a little water to drum and then a little caustic and stir then gradually adding more caustic and water until all the caustic is added and the level of the solution is about 18 inches to 1 foot from the top of the drum. Set up the second drum with phosphoric: Repeat above process adding the phosphoric and water to about the same level

Method: Take the part you want cleaned and wire brush part of it to get a good electrical connection then attach a piece of tie wire and lower into the caustic tank leaving the end of the tie wire hanging up over the side of the drum then attach one lead from the battery charger to this wire.

Drill a few 5/16 holes along the piece of timber to allow the rod to slide through freely. Lay the timber across the top of the drum and pass the rod though one of the holes down into the solution, clip the other charger lead to the rod and this will stop it sliding all the way through. Check and make sure the rod is not touching the work and is hanging free. Turn on the charger and watch the ammeter. Adjust to get maximum current by just sliding the rod either up or down into the solution. I can’t remember whether + or – to the work, it works both ways only one way is faster.

Relax and have a beer your job is being cleaned

I normally leave the bits in overnight and pull them out for a check in the morning, sometimes really badly rusted or corroded I put back in for longer. Give them a good wire brush and a hose off. If you think they are clean and derusted completely then hang them in the drum of phosphoric and have a few beers. Pull them out and hang up to dry. When dry they should have a light grey matt finish. This finish can be painted directly over. If I am not going to work on them straight away I generally give them another dip in the phosphoric to make sure they are well coated. I have left stuff treated like this laying around for a couple of years with no sign of further rust.

Mike

[BruceS]

Very good post Mike. Lot's of detail and precautions.
Chuck has smallish nuts so maybe divide measurements by a factor of 20!!

[dapope]

Very good post Mike. Lot's of detail and precautions.
Chuck has smallish nuts so maybe divide measurements by a factor of 20!!

Seen em have ya????!!