Dot & Georges .

[Boblebago]

Hi Dot

I installed a Redarc as Bruce has suggested and the towing sign is core flute with the sign stuck to it.
The Do Not Overtake sign is meant to be covered when the car is not being towed but I haven't worked out how to cover it without leaving a sticky residue that taping it does.
We also have a cover for the front of the car that has a number plate on it.

Regards Geoff

[Wilbor]

Dot, I have a 24v to 12v reducer, the same as Bernies I think. I mounted it under the drivers seat of the Suzie. We have an invisi brake from roadmaster that operates off the brake light signal, it is also under the drivers seat. Very easy to install, I ran the 7 core cable to a flat 7 pin plug mounted on the front of the Suzie to the reducer. I have a 2m cable that connects between the truck trailer plug and the Suzie trailer plug. Main reason I did it this way is that I had nowhere to install the reducer on the rear of WILBOR easily. It works just fine.

The invisi brake operates its own little compressor and vacuum pump and is hooked into the cars vacuum brake booster. It has a couple of safeguards so that the brakes don't stay on and burn out, like it only operates for 15 seconds, has an audible alarm and light on the dash of Wilbor. If you need brakes on the toad I would recommend this system. There is absolutely no setting up, just hook up the A Frame, plug in the wiring harness and it's ready to go. Just remember to put the ignition onto accessory and gears in park and transfer case in neutral.

I don't think there is any requirement to display an under two sign, in our state anyway.

[Dot]

Thanks guys shall pass this info onto George. The prep for towing is to be added to the already long "check list" G does that while the bus is building up air (not instant like Chuck)

[Dot]

G went to see the local auto mech and he had the OEX reducer but on the box it said 10amps ($100) & 20amps ($160) Which one 10 or 20amp?

[BruceS]

I could say that the 20A one would be stronger or something but really, if your toad has LED tail lights then the 10A one should do the job.
I'd go for the 20A one anyway.
If it was a 6X4 trailer it would only have a couple of lights on the back end but I guess with a car toad it'll have turning lights working both ends of it?
It's only money!!

[BernieQ2]

Cant say Dot I think mines a 10 amp but not sure.
Just done another pic before the neighbour's start giggling at contortions you know one leg in one up and don't know about the other...gotta start wearing undies?

DSCF0366 (Custom).JPG

[BruceS]

Before you ask Dot ............
360w divided by 12V = 30Amp
........ too much damn info Bernie!!! (poor bloody neighbours!)

[Boblebago]

Mine is 360 watts and I have the done same as Rob and have a jumper lead from the bus to the Terios of 7 core trailer wire and connected into rear lights harness under the drivers side kick panel and used diodes from Janer so only the rear lights work.
http://www.janer.com.au/electrical.html

Geoff

[Chuck]

Thanks guys shall pass this info onto George. The prep for towing is to be added to the already long "check list" G does that while the bus is building up air (not instant like Chuck)

[Dot]

G went to see the auto sparkie today about the trailer reducer, the guy he spoke to went out the back to speak to the auto guy and what came back was the sparkie was reluctant to wire into the cars system and suggested a separate "light board" using LED's thus saving on the cost of the reducer??? Are we to assume this guy doesn't know enough about the cars electrical system to do the job?? he has put me off Comments please