T1 Terry wrote:Sounds like a lot of fun, I've seen quite a few attempt to go down the Arduino route, watching a simple script blow out into a long version of Leo Tolstoy's War and Peace and then go crazy trying to find the typo that causes the glitch at just the wrong moment
After way too many yrs in the automotive game seeing complex computers crash and burn due to the hostile environment they operate in you are a braver man than I Gunga Din. I'll stick with fail to safe multiple level redundancy using time proven circuit boards modified to suit, much easier to direct the use of a multimeter to pin point a problem than trying to guide someone by email or phone through pages of script
T1 Terry
He He He you do have a point there about the script. Without question that is my weak point. I have a voltage triggered timer that has adjustable hiatus. Perhaps that would be a better choice. I will need to test it too see if it will be a Problem after the timer has triggered. Since my loads will low amps I am likely over thinking this
Thanks Terry
2019 F150 Ecoboost SuperCrew
2016 Rockwood Mini Lite 2504S Trailer
640 Watts solar ElectroDacus SBMS0 3 DSSR20 (TS60 backup)
150 AH Lifepo4 3P4S 208AH CG2 hybrid system
Boondocking is my game
"If you are not learning, you are dying"
Hmm seeing I have no idea what you boys have been talking about until Mr Grizz wrote
" Without question that is my weak point. I have a voltage triggered timer that has adjustable hiatus. Perhaps that would be a better choice. I will need to test it too see if it will be a Problem after the timer has triggered."
Now I understand
Queen of the Banal & OT chatter and proud of it. If it offends you then tough titty titty bang bang.
T1 Terry wrote:Sounds like a lot of fun, I've seen quite a few attempt to go down the Arduino route, watching a simple script blow out into a long version of Leo Tolstoy's War and Peace and then go crazy trying to find the typo that causes the glitch at just the wrong moment
After way too many yrs in the automotive game seeing complex computers crash and burn due to the hostile environment they operate in you are a braver man than I Gunga Din. I'll stick with fail to safe multiple level redundancy using time proven circuit boards modified to suit, much easier to direct the use of a multimeter to pin point a problem than trying to guide someone by email or phone through pages of script
T1 Terry
He He He you do have a point there about the script. Without question that is my weak point. I have a voltage triggered timer that has adjustable hiatus. Perhaps that would be a better choice. I will need to test it too see if it will be a Problem after the timer has triggered. Since my loads will low amps I am likely over thinking this
Thanks Terry
Why bother using a pwm solar controller at all? For just a few percent of AHs? Seems that a shunt type controller could run a SSR relay just fine and not deal with the on and off heat that is generated by pwm ? Is there any real need for absorption during all charge cycles? What am I missing?
Thanks
Now that I think on this, seems to me you would not see PWM until it reached absorption. So during Bulk (Boost) does the Dingo do it differently?
Last edited by grizzzman on Sun Jan 01, 2017 12:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2019 F150 Ecoboost SuperCrew
2016 Rockwood Mini Lite 2504S Trailer
640 Watts solar ElectroDacus SBMS0 3 DSSR20 (TS60 backup)
150 AH Lifepo4 3P4S 208AH CG2 hybrid system
Boondocking is my game
"If you are not learning, you are dying"
native pepper wrote:Four equal capacity cells in series and 3 lines in parallel, or batteries as you call them. The .3 v is a combination of the variations in all the cells in the pack, which I worked out by judging where the cells should be at that charge point and where they were.
That's it from me, when people accuse me of lying, I walk away, those types are from the lowest pits of life and unworthy of associating with.
EH??!
Did I miss something???
This has to be the best news of 2016. I now look forward to a happy 2017 with nice people.
I think the timer is lacking. (not enough time delay) otherwise it looks good.
2019 F150 Ecoboost SuperCrew
2016 Rockwood Mini Lite 2504S Trailer
640 Watts solar ElectroDacus SBMS0 3 DSSR20 (TS60 backup)
150 AH Lifepo4 3P4S 208AH CG2 hybrid system
Boondocking is my game
"If you are not learning, you are dying"
Basically it is a $200 voltage sensing relay, just a few more fancy programmable functions that really only set the ON and OFF function designed to protect the source (starter) battery, it doesn't protect the target (house) battery in any way that I can see, has no cell voltage sensing so could not protect lithium battery. It could be adapted to work but as a stand alone unit it is just another VSR
T1 Terry
A person may fail many times, they only become a failure when they blame someone else John Burrows
Those who struggle to become a leader, rarely know a clear direction forward for anyone but themselves
T1 Terry wrote:Sounds like a lot of fun, I've seen quite a few attempt to go down the Arduino route, watching a simple script blow out into a long version of Leo Tolstoy's War and Peace and then go crazy trying to find the typo that causes the glitch at just the wrong moment
After way too many yrs in the automotive game seeing complex computers crash and burn due to the hostile environment they operate in you are a braver man than I Gunga Din. I'll stick with fail to safe multiple level redundancy using time proven circuit boards modified to suit, much easier to direct the use of a multimeter to pin point a problem than trying to guide someone by email or phone through pages of script
T1 Terry
He He He you do have a point there about the script. Without question that is my weak point. I have a voltage triggered timer that has adjustable hiatus. Perhaps that would be a better choice. I will need to test it too see if it will be a Problem after the timer has triggered. Since my loads will low amps I am likely over thinking this
Thanks Terry
Why bother using a pwm solar controller at all? For just a few percent of AHs? Seems that a shunt type controller could run a SSR relay just fine and not deal with the on and off heat that is generated by pwm ? Is there any real need for absorption during all charge cycles? What am I missing?
Thanks
Now that I think on this, seems to me you would not see PWM until it reached absorption. So during Bulk (Boost) does the Dingo do it differently?
All PWM controllers basically work the same way, solar connected to battery until the target voltage is reached, voltage control from there on. The only difference to an MPPT controller is during the bulk phase of operation, after that all voltage control including shunt diversion is PWM control, a shunt diversion required a dump load equal to or greater than the charging capacity and needs to be available at all times. The hot water service is a great dump load, but once it reaches the thermostat cut off temp the load is no longer available, so what then?
Absorption mode not only puts those last few Ah in, it also gives the cells in a parallel string a chance to equalise capacity, a solar array that can pump out big amps will run the air con, but what about when there is no air con load? I posted earlier about the problems associated with high current charging as the top end of charge is approached, so if the DC to DC was to be combined with the solar then probably a bulk only then drop to float would be a good thing, let the solar do the last bit. This is not a long term suitable method for Li solar charging though and quite a few who have a very fringe understanding of Li charging requirements will learn that they really didn't know it all as the capacity starts to disappear. No doubt these will be the first to claim lithium batteries are no good, these type of people can not accept that they got it wrong
T1 Terry
A person may fail many times, they only become a failure when they blame someone else John Burrows
Those who struggle to become a leader, rarely know a clear direction forward for anyone but themselves
I will need to test it too see if it will be a Problem after the timer has triggered. Since my loads will low amps I am likely over thinking this 
